The regular guiding season has ended, and with more time on my hands, I decided to return to one of the subjects that I’ve long wanted to focus on the Litvak shtetls.
Looking back at this year’s tours, I remembered one visit that stayed with me. At the end of September, I had a Jewish heritage tour with two young women. One traced her family roots in Dusetos, the other in Biržai – why not start my series with one of these shtetls? I chose Dusetos.
During the visit, I was moved by how much it meant to the two young women to be in the land of their ancestors. It didn’t matter that they couldn’t see their grandparents’ houses, the synagogues, or even the graves – though in Biržai we did find a few traces. They saw the same trees that once gave shade to their families, the lakes and rivers where their ancestors bathed, and the streets they once walked.
Even though the weather was chilly, stepping into the same lake, sitting on the same stones, or leaning against the same oak felt deeply meaningful. All day, together with our driver Donatas, we kept wondering which of the trees might still remember “those times” – and that became a kind of quiet game among us.
I also came across my 2020 article about Dusetos, published in We Love Lithuania (in Lithuanian). Reviewing it, I realized I have enough material to start with this former shtetl.
So, I’m beginning a new series called “Shtetl of the Week.” Each week will focus on one Lithuanian town or village that once had a Jewish community: its history, its heritage and what can be seen today.
Here’s the first story in the series: Dusetos, a small town by Lake Sartai with a Jewish community that once had big dreams.
Litvak Shtetls 
Dear Ausra,
What a great idea (‘Shtetl of the week’)! I’m looking forward to your reviews.
I’m continuing to plan for a visit next year (2026) but need to firm up other commitments before considering dates although I am thinking of late April/May as a likely time. My daughter has expressed an interest in joining me as well. She is religious (observant) and would need kosher food. Is this possible in Vilnius?
Thank you,
Bernard Maister.
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Hi Bernard, thank you so much for your kind words. I’m glad you like the “Shtetl of the Week” idea!
As for kosher food in Lithuania: options are quite limited, but manageable with some planning. In Vilnius, there are vegan restaurants and cafés that many visitors choose, and it’s also possible to pre-book kosher meals through the Chabad Center. There’s another kosher kitchen at the Kaunas Jewish Center, though availability may vary.
Some other places are more in the kosher-style category rather than strictly kosher. I also have a list of kosher products available in local supermarkets, which can be useful during the stay.
If I learn about any new options before your trip, I’ll be happy to update you. Late April or May sounds like a wonderful time to visit, everything will be in bloom 🙂
Aušra
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